In 1773, the British Parliament, imposed a tea tax, on the young colony of America, partly as a way to exert control and in a contest of rebellion, in Boston, the indignant colonists disguised themselves as Native Americans and threw the tea into the harbor. The crisis escalated and initiated the American Revolution.
I was in the fourth grade and we were having social studies in suburban Los Angeles when I first became aware of Boston. Walking home from school, I chanted the mantra, “One if by land and two if by sea”. The timing coincided with my brother and I having started a hobby together; a coin collection, so my interest in the historical, financial and geographical realms of Americana was coming full spectrum.
A friend's Bostonian born mother still subscribed to the Boston Globe and at their house I'd pore over the “Lifestyle” section, which included gardening, as rapt as an archaeologist sitting in a cave. The details of what I read have been blurred but I do remember snippets of the images and the sensation I felt while I read; a combined anticipation and nostalgia so keen it bordered on longing. Although I had never been there, I was homesick for the land of the founding fathers.
Decades later, living in beguiling New York as a tonic to break free from the grime, and to end 1994, I forged a trip along with a friend to Boston to understand and appreciate the impulse that draws visitors there.
Disembarking the train, at South Station, we hailed a cab, once inside peering out the window I had a special moment, a thought of recognition, and of San Diego, and drew parallels from one small city to another, where a litany of urban social problems still exist- but would be manageable, and I as a curious cat I would find out what the fuss was all about.
Passing the first glimpse of a landmark, the Boston Public Library, I remember the grand Beaux Arts style of libraries in Europe, but the Boston Library with its massive exterior and pink granite indicated there was more to explore and I was smitten in an instant. In the haze of a late afternoon, I saw lofty skyscrapers and the John Hancock tower splendid in its arrogance and power.
Because my friend believed in excess; as a limousine crawled lazily to take us-- it's pampered passengers to a luxe destination, it rolled past a threadbare homeless person sitting cross-legged on the sidewalk seeking the warmth that steams from the city's underbelly. He caught my miss nothing stare, “It's a subway grate condominium” he called out. It was a ludicrous cartoon and a sobering documentary, combined.
The next morning while at Faneuil Hall, abustle with tourists, I couldn't help but think-- it's no wonder the Kennedy's' were drawn to politics! History is everywhere. A security guard stood in the corner. I recalled having been at the Metropolitan Opera at Lincoln Center, two months before, as a birthday present I splurged and went to a performance, Turandot by Puccini. Alone, I took in the magnificence of the chandeliers, the marble, the rich interiors. While at intermission, I went up to the gum-cracking guard “Excuse me, sir, this is my first time inside the Met, would you happen to know who designed it?” He sneered, his body stiff from city armor, “Who da hell wants to know? Why ax me? “ He turned to another guard and stated, “How bout them Yankees, Mac?” His stereotypical rudeness rerouted me back to my seat reminding me it's slippery to ask a New Yorker a question.
Having left the Hotel that morning without my guidebook, I start to pace the Hall looking for literature, a pamphlet, anything to get my hands on. The security guard breaks a smile and says in a pleasing voice, “May I help you with something?”. When I tell him what I'm searching for, he asks me where I'm from. “This is the Cradle of Liberty, Miss” and goes into the history of the building concluding with his recommendations on what to see in the city including directions and where to go for chowdah. All of which are precise.
At Trinity Church later that afternoon, there's a concert, with a high-level choir and Renaissance music complete with an education of string instruments, primarily from 16th century Italy. That entire week is devoted to the sounds of the Holidays at no cost, as part of the rich musical landscape of Boston.
Staying in Copley Square everything is arm's reach. A visit to the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum includes three floors of galleries filled with paintings, sculpture, tapestries, furniture, and decorative arts from cultures spanning thirty centuries. But it's the garden courtyard that blooms with life in this cold season that takes my breath away, I can only gaze in wonder and recall my love of flowers from the days of my childhood. Now, I experience much the same thing.
After the museum we're off to Freedom Trail and a stop at Newbury Street to buy myself a new hat. I choose a black velvet toque commemorating the last day of the year. Then I hear of the birth of my first nephew, that I have long awaited. I swing my hat up into the air, impromptu and buoyant from the maddening thrill that is beyond parallel.
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